The Continuing Education of Amrie

Yesterday, I saw real Amish people in Reading Terminal Market! At least I think they were Amish (the women wear little white bonnets), but it is fascinating to think about a group of people who have been able to retain a culture (perhaps not completely intact or free from exodus) based on a system of beliefs in the midst of our 'progressive' society with our fried Macaroni and Cheese balls and our Oreo pizzas. Actually, it appears that the Amish are one of the groups comprising the Pennsylvania Dutch (and Wikipedia mentions identity in this article, Katharine!). No, these must have been Mennonites, as the Amish people in above article have blue bonnets... am just confusing self and readers now.

Reading Terminal Market is just right around the corner from my hotel, and was first noticed at the inhospitable hour of 6.45am whilst a certain person was wandering around looking for the practically invisible train station, which happens to be very large AND directly across the street from the market in a dark roadway tunnel (and which I didn't think could possibly contain an entrance and therefore walked almost around the entire block before figuring out how to get inside). It is an historic market place, which was created in the mid-nineteenth century to contain the madness and chaos resulting from street markets. I have great plans to go there for breakfast or lunch today :) (Today, am v. excited as managed to sleep until 6.30, instead of the 4.30 time my brain has decided is fun)

I have never seen anything like this market in the US before, (wait... except for Boston on a high school church trip, although for some reason, we seemed more dazzled by the 3-story Bennetton -- idiot children). So, oops -- this is not supposed to be new to me. BUT, Amish/Mennonite/P.Dutch people are definitely not in my circle of experience, even though the Steens did gift me an Amish rocking chair, which remains under my ownership :) Back to the market: there is an amazing selection of fishes, and cheeses, and meats, as well as organic produce. Another great plan of the day is to buy some Fiji Apples (as they are delectable).

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Another interesting thing about the region is the Welsh influence on not only place names, but also architecture. From the 1682 to 1700, the Welsh were the largest immigrating group to the Pennsylvania colony. Article linked above is interesting, although the slight recognition that Wales was ever a strong and separate nation may rankle some of my Taffy friends (even I was slightly offended for you, as it makes it sound like Wales was just this little play-kingdom that the British thought would be fun to have.). The first groups during period above were farmers and gentry, but the second large wave from the last decade of the 18th century to the middle of the next was mostly made up of industrial workers, esp. in coal. Q.I. Today, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania (quiz question alert!) has more people of Welsh descent than any other state -- about 200,000. As well, Eisteddfods were held into the 20th century (article is dated 1937) and not just in Pennsylvania. And there is an annual festival, the Gymanfa Ganu!

Yesterday, was in Bryn Mawr and I knew this was Welsh, but did not have time or organisation to find out much beforehand. Dawny has informed me that Bryn Mawr means, 'big hill'. I do now know about the comparative landscape, although no extremely big hill was evident to me. It is, however, a lovely suburb of Philly and is quite posh. One of the schools I visited yesterday, The Baldwin School, is surprising in the Welsh-ness (or maybe Cardiff-ness) of its buildings. Exterior walls are kind of a jigsaw puzzle of rough-hewn, irregularly squared rocks, which is v.v. Cardiff. Some photos from website may demonstrate this, but did not manage to get any myself.

However, the windows and some other elements have a certain Scottish feel to them, and as C.R. Mackintosh's career was blossoming during the period that the school was being developed, it makes one wonder. Esp. if one has not done extensive research on the history of the school.

There is also the word 'Croesaw' as part of a two-word phrase carved above the fireplace in the entry hall. This evolution from 'Croeso', which means 'welcome', is interesting, but beyond that I can really say nothing else credible. I wonder if the different spelling has an evolved pronunciation as well, or if it retains the curt vowel at the end. My guess is that it does not, and that pronunciation developed a kind of Atlantic drawl, resulting in the change of spelling. Anyhoo... my idea may be complete pants.

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A few other notes:
* Commuter trains here seem to pootle rather than move with a purpose.
* Customer service in places like train ticket offices (other than at the hotel) is rather British. And therefore lacking.
* However, other people are much friendlier than I expected :)
* Hurricane Noel winds may affect the city today, in v. periferal manner, though. Am not in danger of being in a hurricane.
* Roasted salmon at the Courtyard is an excellent room service choice.
* Knitting of clever gloves is finished and now they just need to be sewn up (clever buttons for finishing are, of course, in Norwich. curses.).
* Shall add photos at a later time (I hope)